Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
